Bolted Bed Frame
A 1500 x 2000 mm oak-post bed that comes apart with eight bolts: rails bolted to the posts, slats resting loose on bolted cleats.
Designthe dimensions everything else is derived from
Cut list sizes are finished sizes. Add 5 mm to the width and 25 mm to the length of every solid-wood part for saw kerf and planing, and buy boards oversize by one thickness so a bowed board can be flattened rather than relegated.
Materialswhat each part is made from, and why
All materialsCut listfinished sizes, worked back from the design
| Part | Qty | Finished size | Stock |
|---|---|---|---|
| Post | 4 | 70 x 70 x 300 mm | Oak |
| Side rail | 2 | 2000 x 140 x 25 mm | Pine (Southern Yellow) |
| End rail | 2 | 1360 x 140 x 25 mm | Pine (Southern Yellow) |
| Slat cleat | 2 | 1860 x 40 x 25 mm | Pine (Southern Yellow) |
| Slat | 12 | 1360 x 70 x 18 mm | Pine (Southern Yellow) |
Fastenersquantities and lengths that follow from the joints
All standards| Item | Qty | Grip | Standard |
|---|---|---|---|
| M8 x 110 hex bolt | 8 | 95 mm | ISO 4017 |
| M8 x 80 hex bolt | 6 | 65 mm | ISO 4017 |
| M8 plain washer | 28 | — | DIN 125 A |
| M8 nylon-insert nut | 14 | — | DIN 985 |
Grip is the sum of the clamped thicknesses. A bolt has to clear the nut by two full threads, which is what sets the length that appears in each row — not a preference.
Toolsand what each one is for on this job
All toolsOrder of workthe sequence, and where it is not free to change
- Cut the four posts and the four rails.
- Clamp each rail to its two posts and bore through all three at once.
- Counterbore the rail face so the bolt heads finish below the surface.
- Assemble dry, check the diagonals, then bolt up.
- Bolt the two slat cleats to the inside faces of the side rails, their top edges level with each other.
- Lay the twelve slats in loose. Do not fasten them: a squeak is almost always a fastened slat moving against its fixing.
Where it goes wrongthe three failures worth designing out
- Fastening the slats down. Slats that are stapled or screwed cannot slide as the frame flexes, and the movement goes into the fixing instead, which is what squeaks.
- Using a bolt that is too short because the grip was measured at the post only. The rail counts as well, and a bolt that stops short of the nut is not a joint.
- Ignoring the cleats. A bed whose rails are bolted but whose cleats are nailed from the outside is only as stiff as the nails.
Frequently asked questions
Why not use bed bolts with a barrel nut, as commercial beds do?
Because the nut then sits inside the rail, in a cross-dowel bored across the grain. That is a stronger joint, and it is harder to make and impossible to inspect. Bolting right through with the nut on the inside face leaves something you can see and re-tighten.
Can the frame be made taller?
Yes, but the posts grow by the same amount as the rails. A taller post with the same bolt pattern is a longer lever on the same eight joints, so if the frame goes up by 200 mm the rail depth should go up rather than the bolt count.
What stops the bed sliding on a hard floor?
Friction, mostly, which is why the posts have a 70 x 70 footprint and not a 40 mm one. If it still walks, the honest fix is a rubber foot under each post rather than a heavier frame.